1940s
One of the most poignant items in the Collection is an unfinished cardigan. It is very neatly knitted in fine wool, in a checkerboard pattern of two stitches/rows navy and two yellow. It was knitted from darning wool, which was not rationed, but which came on cards in short (one yard?) lengths.
The knitter had bought card after card of darning wool to make her cardigan. She knitted both fronts and the back, then one sleeve – beautiful on the right side [left], but just look at all the ends on the inside [right]; all joined with knots even in the middle of the row to make best use of the wool – but then the shop ran out of the wool and she could get no more. Can you imagine the anguish! The knitted parts lay in a drawer from then to 1998 when they were donated to the Guild.
However, even by 1946 cheerful bright colours were back in fashion. Cardigans and jumpers were embellished with embroidery.
Two interesting garments thought to date from the 1940s are 'suit blouses'. Both have crochet fronts in white rayon.
One has a fabric back made of cheap lining fabric.
The other has a button at back neck to support the crocheted fronts, then straps to tie it at the back. [see right]
This must reflect the need to be sparing with (expensive?) materials, and also the desire for a smooth sleek line under a tailored suit. With no central heating one would not plan to have to remove one's suit jacket.
On a more practical level, these sturdy long johns, knitted in thick wool, are dated 1946.
A recent acquisition is an unworn machine knitted vest with a Utility label – this doesn't quite fit in with the Guild Collection's remit, but it was only £3 and represents an important example of how knitted fabric was used. And it does make one feel lucky not to have to wear knitted wool under everything else!
In 1947 Dior created the New Look, and by the end of the decade it was everywhere. The emphasis was on every curve of the figure, with a nipped-in waist and rounded bosom and hips. Skirts were full, worn over full petticoats. Blouses and jumpers were neat and waist-hugging.
Sometimes it is very difficult to date items that are purchased for or donated to the Guild Collection. This dress was found in an attic full of designer-label clothes from the 1920s. It skims the body and flares gently at the knees – this style was fashionable in the late 1920s. But the dress is crocheted in glitter threads that have not tarnished. When were these available? It also has a nylon zip – but a zip is easily replaced, so one should not attach too much importance to this. The style came back into fashion in 1949.
What do you think? 1920s or 1949 or neither of these?
1950s
This crocheted coat, with an elegant swing, was made for and worn by Guild member, Linda Haldane, in the 1950s.
Granny squares are usually associated with the 1970s, for the back and front were worked first, then stitches picked up to knit, and the fabric carefully shaped into sleeves, neckband and welt.
The Collection includes this crochet wedding dress, made by the bride-to-be in 1955 and worn in January 1956. The dress is a soft smoky blue, with a scoop neck, long sleeves ending in long cuffs with pearl buttons, and a full skirt. It was worn over hooped petticoats. We're looking out for hooped petticoats to display it as it should be.